Although basically an earthy wine that was most likely produced from vineyards where the yields were stretched to the max to keep the price down, it does have its charms. You’ll find enough black-cherry flavors to satisfy, and the tannins are soft and firm. It’s dry as dust. The right foods (perhaps roast pork) will coax out its inherent sweetness.——S.H.(5/1/2001)—— 83