This Mourvedre (with 8% Syrah) is still coming together, but all the right pieces are in place. Young, tight and compact, it opens with tart berry and currant fruit, then shows a distinctive, earthy underpinning. As it unwinds it shows wet earth, graphite, pepper and truffle, balanced and layered but still a bit shut down. Give it a lot of breathing time, or put it away for a couple of years.——P.G.(5/1/2007)—— 90