The meaty, robust 2009 Syrah Phoenix Ranch offers up notes of jus de viande, tapenade, creosote, black cherries and black currants. Medium to full-bodied with fresh acids, this dense ruby/purple-tinged, French-like Syrah will drink well for 5-6 years. This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs. Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

Made in the Failla style of this bottling, a big, rich, softly potent wine whose notable feature is the sheer explosiveness of the fruit. Seems to change every second, now offering ripe blackberries, now crushed raspberry preserves, then bacon and smoked meats, mocha, sauteed mushrooms, licorice, charred oak. And always there is the black pepper. Pure California in its essence and immediate charm.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 94