Meaty and muscular, with a beefy heft that can’t be denied. Fortunately, some peach and berry character affords it the fruit it needs. Flavors of spiced peaches, licorice and grapefruit carry the palate, while it finishes smoky and mildly fruity. With pop and power, this one doesn’t tread lightly.——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 89