The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a phenomenal effort in this average vintage. I am amazed by the estate's ability to make a wine with this level of textural richness, depth and sheer power in 2005. This is a dark, inward Brunello loaded with black fruit, smoke, tar, menthol and a host of other dark, sensual aromas and flavors. The wine’s length and intensity are truly a marvel to behold. Like the 2003, I expect demand for the 2005 Riserva to be relatively weak given all of the interest for the 2006s and more highly-regarded vintages of the Riserva, which means this wine will almost certainly be available at favorable pricing somewhere down the line. It is a stunner. The 2005 Riserva spent 25 days on the skins and 40 months in French oak casks. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035.
Il Poggione is Montalcino’s fourth largest estate, with an eye-popping 125 hectares of Brunello designated vineyards, behind Banfi, Castelgiocondo and Col d’Orcia. My annual tasting spanned every wine in barrel from 2006-2010. I continue to be deeply impressed by the average level of quality father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci coax from these sites. Frankly, it is hard to go wrong with any of the Brunelli Il Poggione has put into bottle over the last few years. The straight Brunello remains one of the most reasonably priced, cellar-worthy wines in the world. The 2006s are rich, bombastic wines that will require patience to drop their baby fat. The Brunelli are fermented with a submerged cap and pumpovers, an approach that is unusual in Montalcino but common in Piedmont. My visit ended with a taste of the 1955 Brunello, which is still in great shape, even after all these years.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900
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