Readers looking for a distinctive Chardonnay that smells of lemon juice, orange blossom, and a hint of sealing wax should check out the 2004 Chardonnay Isolation Ridge. Some oak is utilized, but it is completely concealed by the wine’s minerality, precision, power, and length. It should be drinkable for 1-3 years. Imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CA; tel. (800) 485-5753 for John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection.

Almond, white pepper and citrus aromas start things off. In the mouth, it’s soft and delicate in feel, narrow but not simple or lean, with sweet fruit and a resin overlay. Imported by USA Wine West. ——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 88