The 2004 Zweigelt Schilfwein represents Tschida’s take on vin de paille. Showing the effects of its two years in new wood in overtones of lanolin and a slightly gummy sweetness, this reddish “sticky” somewhat redeems itself with its sheer intensity of candied cherry and cinnamon, finishing with impressive penetration, though nearly overwhelming sweetness. Having little experience with the aging of this genre, I can only speculate that 5-7 years should be as nothing to this wine, and might bring some welcome restraint to its sweetness.Hans Tschida – who has been working in wine since his childhood – has not worried about living almost literally in the shadow of Alois Kracher (with whom he says he shared many early discussions). Tschida’s sweet elixirs have their own elegant style and class, and he can also lay claim to some of best Eiswein and “Strohwein” (from fruit dried on mats) made anywhere in the world. In recent years, Tschida has begun shipping to the United States, which served to remind me it was high time that I brought his wines to the attention of my readers. Just as chez Kracher, there are two stylistic lines for nobly sweet wines: those that Tschida ferments in stainless steel tanks, he prefers to leave in tank; other wines are fermented and retained in barrique.Importers: Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com