Hirsch’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Lamm features caramelized turnips and parsnip, sweet, resinous herbs, sugar snap peas, and Bosc pear in a polished, creamy-rich and honeyed matrix. Honey, hints of caramel, root vegetables, and white pepper inform a long finish, fully supported by 11 grams of residual sugar (heresy at most Austrian addresses unless one is up against potentially incendiary levels of alcohol). This should be worth following for a decade. Johannes Hirsch was already done harvesting in 2007 on October 8 (after starting September 13), not far behind the Nikolaihof. And there is another connection with that venerable estate which may or may not be vital: Hirsch has been passionately pursuing a biodynamic path. I did manage to get a smile out of him when I suggested that he consider replacing the pile of cow horns he had accumulated with much rarer and surely more efficacious antlers of elk (Hirsch). “The clusters were beautifully golden-yellow, perfect,” he relates, so there was no need to wait, which meant missing out on the mid-October rains.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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