Grilled pineapple, mango, and banana overlain with caramel constitute the gaudy scents and flavors of Minges’ 2009 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Rieslaner Spatlese, which performs with marked similarity to its exhibitionist 2008 predecessor. Sweetly confectionary and herbal liqueur-like though it is, this still harbors 10.5% alcohol (true too of other sweet Minges Spatlesen of the vintage), and it’s arguably more an Auslese in character. It finishes long and drippingly-rich, with fascinatingly funky incursions of musk, sage, and passion fruit. This striking wine won’t be everyone’s cup of Rieslaner, but for sipping unaccompanied it will at the very least get a conversation going, and there might also be some interesting applications with fruit deserts that aren’t themselves too sweet. “We brought in so many lovely wines and worked so hard, now it would be nice to have some rest and not the waiting and waiting for frost” Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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