Tight and aloof now, showing brawny tannins that accentuate the dryness, and the oak has not yet been integrated. But this is clearly a very fine wine. It’s bone dry and silky and classically structured, with a deep, impressive core of berries and cola, as well as earthy, foresty mushrooms and balsam. Needs time. Give it a good six years in the cellar. ——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 92