Readers who crave gaudy Gewurztraminers will flip for the 1997 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vendange Tardive. Its peony, rose water, and honeysuckle aromatics are followed by an immense mouthful of apricots, cherries, mangoes, mint, red currants, honey, and perfume. This full-bodied, hugely powerful wine is thickly-textured yet fresh and well-proportioned. It is a mind-bogglingly expressive effort, crafted in a take-no-prisoners style. Drink it over the next decade. Importers: European Cellars (Eric Solomon), New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel (773) 275-1200; Branded New England, Norwood, MA; tel (781) 501-1256; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (800) 266-6585.
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