This Loess is definitely more—more concentration, more ripeness, more Cote Rotie character than the 2005, but already showing dramatic flavor development. Cofermented with 3% Viognier, it’s a silky wine with flavors of blood, meat and earth dominating. Tannins are ripe, and it was barreled in second-fill oak, preserving the natural flavors of the vineyard. Clearly the best so far from Waters.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 92