Toast and char sit atop the bouquet like a heavy king on his throne, but there’s nothing fake or weak about it. The color is dark and the palate is round; flavors of black plum, figs and black olives convey a meaty, true personality amid all the char, chocolate and vanilla. A good wine in the massive category that is value-priced Merlot.——M.S.(8/1/2008)—— 86