The 2009 ESPUMANTE ROSE BRUTO (VERTICE) is mostly Touriga Franca, with 15% Malvasia Fina. Usually the most accessible wine in this lineup, held back the least amount of time (9 months in bottle), this is quite impressive this year and seems to have an extra layer and an extra dimension. Rather piercing and powerful on opening, it eventually shows that friendly red fruit and develops intense flavors as well. As it warms, it becomes fruity and tasty-not sweet-but shows a very different dimension than the producer's other wines. It is very well done, though. It is an enjoyable pink at a good price point here, a mere 9 Euros in Portugal. There were 27,900 bottles produced. Drink now-2015. This winery founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg (although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas) is best known for its sparkling wines, and lately they-ve been making a statement in that area. The red wines have improved quite a bit and are quite nice now, too, and the whites are often very nice and good values, but it is hard to overlook what they achieve in sparklers. Let's just say I-ve heard -You mean this is Portuguese????- quite a few times. Alas, the new release -05 Gouveio was not received in time to include in this report. It will be supplemented in the February issue.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.
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