A remarkably intense wine from vineyards located in the western hills of Salinas Valley. Made with grapes ripened enough to veer it into tropical fruit territory, but those telltale Monterey acids are bright as a bell. A solid dose of oak lends smoky vanilla and spice components. The result is a full-throttle wine, strong and flavorful. What it lacks in refinement it makes up in sheer exuberance. ——S.H.(5/1/2001)—— 89