Fortress is establishing a formidable record for Sauvignon Blanc. The ’06 is rich, elegant, and enormously drinkable. There’s great delicacy to the mouthfeel, with stony, mineral flavors that add tang to the lime, Meyer lemon and smoky spice flavors that finish so dry and crisp. The Red Hills of Lake County is proving to be an extremely promising source of Bordeaux varieties, both red and white.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 91