It’s so easy to get a big Zin wrong, especially in a hot vintage like 2004, but Taft Street does a good juggling act with this single-vineyard Zin, made from century-old vines. The wine flirts with excessive sweetness, but pulls back at the last second, so that the blackberry, cherry and mocha flavors are essentially dry. Rich, fine tannins and brisk acidity help to provide balance.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 88