The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin is a totally sensual wine. It, too, shows superb inner fragrance, beautifully layered fruit and a finish that lasts forever. This is a great effort at the villages level. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Claude Dugat farms 16 hectares, of which only 3 are owned. Dugat waited until September 20 to start harvesting. The fruit was 100% destemmed and spent 15 days on the skins with two punchdowns a day and no pumpovers. The wine was pressed, left 48 hours to decant and moved into barrel. The wines were racked the following April and were bottled with no fining or filtration. The Bourgogne were aged in neutral oak, the Villages and 1ers saw 50% new oak and the Grand Crus saw 100% new oak. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083