The Pinot Noir portfolio begins with the entry-level 2006 Pinot Noir Thea’s Selection. Medium ruby-colored, it exhibits a nose of earth notes, cherry, and raspberry. Supple-textured and easy-going, the wine is well-balanced, lengthy, and has no hard edges. Drink it over the next four years. Lemelson Vineyards is certified organic which encompasses six estate vineyards and 120 producing acres. All of the wines are fermented with native yeasts. Tel. (503) 852-6619; www.lemelsonvineyards.com

Thea’s Selection is Lemelson’s “measuring stick” Pinot Noir, as it is a blend of blocks from the different estate vineyards. This elegant release emphasizes aromas of pungent herbs, lifted with hints of rose petal and briary berry. In the mouth there is a lively, sappy, fruit-centric focus, showing concentrated raspberry (framboise) flavors. In short, a thoroughly delicious bottle that makes the case for blends over most single-vineyard offerings in Oregon. ——P.G.(12/15/2008)—— 90