From one of the colder sites in the Hansel portfolio, the 2007 Chardonnay North Slope has an almost liqueur of rocks interwoven with nectarine and honeyed citrus. A wine of terrific intensity, full-bodied power, but restrained wood and great acidity, this is a beauty that should drink nicely for 5 or more years.
This is a source for very fine Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs at some of the most realistic prices to be found in Northern California. Like several producers in the Russian River, the 2006s out of bottle from Walter Hansel Winery seem to be evolving quickly and, by-and-large, are slightly less impressive than they were at the beginning of their lives. Nevertheless, the good producers have achieved noteworthy success in this vintage, and certainly Stephen Hansel should be proud of what he’s been able to accomplish in that vintage. Moreover, the 2007s look to be a return to the brilliant quality of the wines produced here in 2005 and 2004. Tasting through barrel samples of all the 2007 Pinot Noirs, this looks to be a superb vintage for Stephen Hansel. Yields were very small, averaging about 1.5 tons of fruit per acre, so these wines reflect a level of concentration, but with the overt fragrance and good acidity that the cool growing season provided.
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