The 1989 Montrachet, of which there are about 60 cases, is closed. Lafon says it needs a minimum of 10 years of cellaring. The steely, mineral aromas of its bouquet are reminiscent of the Meursault-Perrieres. In the mouth, there is awesome concentration, surprisingly high acidity for the vintage, and exhilarating definition and length. I am not sure it will ever offer the drama and opulence of the 1989 Meursault-Charmes, or the intensity of the 1989 Meursault-Perrieres, but it is an extraordinary effort from the Comte Lafon.
Importer: Classic Wines, Brookline, MA.