This is a proud, modern Brunello Riserva that delivers strong and decisive oak tones including vanilla bean, toasted espresso, chocolate fudge and sweet spice that cast a shadow over the natural fruit flavors. The wine is balanced and has good harmony in the mouth, although those wood tones are very present here too. Lovers of traditional Brunello will not appreciate its big, oak-driven character.——M.L.(3/1/2008)—— 89