The Finlaysons, father and son, have made some impressive Chardonnays in the dozen years since they took over this Paarl estate. This is not as fine as some (1995 was exceptional), but it has many of the same characteristics: ripe, tropical, fat fruit, with an element of complexity provided by the lees. Yet, the high toast flavors tend to spoil and dominate the fruit. ——R.V.(7/1/2002)—— 87