The 2008 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco offers up dark fruit, wild herbs, ash and licorice in a somewhat burly, old-fashioned style typical of this house. Still, this shows quite a bit of density for the vintage. Ideally the Bricco is best opened well in advance to allow some of more rustic notes to blow off. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013.
Proprietor Mauro Mascarello makes some of the most compelling, traditional wines in Piedmont. Mascarello’s signature Barolo, Monprivato, rarely shows well when young, yet it has a proven ability to transform magically in the bottle, something I have witnessed first-hand with more vintages than I can remember. The irony is that by the time the wines start showing well they are long gone from the market or have appreciated dramatically in price.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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