The 1992 Bonnes Mares reveals a medium ruby color, a big, dramatic nose of sweet, jammy, black-cherry fruit, herb, and coffee scents, as well as lavish quantities of toasty new oak. While the wine is aggressively oaky, there is plenty of juicy, succulent, berry fruit to accompany the wood. It reveals medium to full body, a satiny smooth texture, and plenty of heady alcohol in the soft finish. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Laurent, an ex-pastry chef, launched his wine career with the 1989 vintage. I have not tasted any of the earlier vintages, but certainly Laurent, who purchases the wines from growers, ages them in 100% new oak, and bottles them without fining or filtration, has hit the bull's eye with some gorgeous 1992s. They are among the most seductive, sumptuous wines of the vintage. The three grand crus I tasted, obviously expensive, do indeed exhibit far more richness, complexity, and style than most wines from Laurent's peers. These immensely impressive wines merit Burgundy enthusiasts' attention.A Patrick Lescq Selection, importers: Martin Scott Wines Ltd., Little Neck, NY; tel. (718) 279-0808 and the Wine Cask, Santa Barbara, CA; tel. (800) 436-9463.
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