The 2009 Chardonnay Keefer Ranch emerges from the glass with layers of rich tropical fruit that fill out its broad-shouldered frame nicely. Smoke, vanillin and sweet spices add complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Adam and Dianna Lee of Siduri make the Novy wines in partnership with Dianna’s family. Essentially the Lees use the Novy brand for all of their non-Pinot wines. The range is quite broad, and quality generally excellent although a few wines I tasted suggest the Lees may be stretching themselves too thin. After tasting virtually all of their wines, it seems like they might be better off focusing on fewer bottlings, but that is just one person’s opinion. The wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands are consistently much more interesting than the wines made from other appellations in the state.Tel. (707) 578-3882; www.novyfamilywines.com
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