Mint, currants, licorice, smoke, and blackberries characterize the aroma, which is very fine and inviting. It’s a big, tough, deep drink, fairly tannic, with ripe, sweet berry fruit lurking deep down inside. Really nice texture; the tannins are sturdy, but elegant. Complex and alluring, with a dry, tannic finish. Needs a few years to show its stuff.——S.H.(11/1/1999)—— 90