The 2003 Touriga Nacional was presented in a bottle, although labeled a cask sample. It is well structured, with good depth, but curiously reticent, a wine that is drying on the finish. It is penetrating and focused, but dumb on opening. As it opens up, the fruit gets more interesting. The somewhat eccentric, rather herbal note on the finish diminished to a point where I noticed it, but the wine was not dominated by it. It does seem a bit heady at times, but I found myself liking this intense Touriga more and more as it aired out. Drink 2008-2014. This estate, operating under the supervision of French consultant Pascal Chatonnet, is producing an array of wines that generally perform well at fair prices.Importer: MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170

A huge wine, full of soft fruit. The layers of tannins sit gently on the plum and cassis fruits, lifted by acidity. If it wasn’t 15.5%, this would be impressive, but the high alcohol makes the wine very Port-like, giving an extra layer of pepper from the alcohol. ——R.V.(9/1/2007)—— 88