The proprietary Rhone varietal blend, the 1998 Pandora, still smells like a barrel sample. Its saturated purple color is accompanied by wild (as the French say, sauvage) notes of animal fur and black fruits. Slightly rustic, with noticeable acidity as well as aggressive tannin, this medium-bodied effort reminds me of a coarse, full-throttle, just-bottled Rhone wine. Give it time to settle down and enjoy it over the next 6-15 years. Tel. (805) 546-0305