Meaty in the nose, with leathery aromas. The fruit flavors are in the plum class, and there seems to be a poached-fruit element there as well. The finish feels hefty and disparate; it has no real direction. Which basically describes this wine. It’s full and tannic, yet it doesn’t seem to have a goal, much less a path to travel upon.——M.S.(8/1/2003)—— 84