The 2012 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers Grand Cru comes from Chartron’s 0.46-hectare monopole perched just above Marquis de Laguiche’s Montrachet. It has a very fine bouquet that seems almost aristocratic in the womb – a broody intensity here. The palate is extremely well-balanced with a core of candied, spicy fruit: nectarine and dried apricot, plenty of spice toward the long and intense finish that lingers long in the mouth. Superb. “I am not a negociant...” assured Jean Chartron, “...except for this barrel of Montrachet.” A hole had opened up in my itinerary when Philippe Colin had to cancel our rendezvous, (nothing personal – his 2012s had had to be racked and were not in representative condition.) What to do before my 5 p.m. meeting with Olivier Lamy? Walking back from Domaine Alain Chavy I popped my head round the door to see if Jean-Michel Charton was (a) there and (b)willing to show me his 2012s. As luck would have it, I was able to spend a profitable 90 minutes tasting through his whites. His wines have tended to be a little underrated out there in the market place. I have had more time for them than others and the 2012s attest to a producer that is improving with every passing vintage. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 255-9414; Fax: (212) 633-2372. www.winebow.com