I was less impressed with the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I enjoyed more from barrel. Like a small percentage of this vintage’s top Cabernets, it has closed down, and the tannins seem more sharp and edgy than they were last year. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by scents of charcoal, smoked herbs, damp earth, and black currants. The aromatics, attack, and mid-palate are all impressive, but then the wine’s structural tannins take over, and the finish is lean and austere. I think it will improve with age, so patience may be rewarded. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Some of California’s more innovative wines emerge from proprietor Fritz Hatton, the well-known auctioneer who is also a classical pianist. Hatton has been expanding his portfolio with each new vintage, and it appears his blended cuvees turn out more interesting than the varietal wines. Usually a blend of 55-60% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot is the proprietary red wine from the H Block of the Hudson Vineyard. The most expensive offering in the portfolio, it is very Cheval Blanc-like.Tel. (707) 963-5918; Fax (707) 963-5919