The 2002 Syrah Hillside Vineyard is a bruiser at 15.3% alcohol. Its power is well hidden under the full-bodied, creme de cassis, charcoal-infused flavors. This smoky, earthy, medium to full-bodied, chewy, well-made, sweetly tannic Syrah should be drunk over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (510) 865-7007

True to Rosenblum’s style, dark, ripely extracted and dry, with the resulting high alcohol. It’s a bit hot and clumsy, but powerful in coffee, chocolate and cherry flavors that will play off against a rib eye steak.——S.H.(12/31/2004)—— 87