Leitz's 2007 Riesling trocken Magic Mountain (sold - albeit not presently in the U.S. - under that English title, although Leitz has also protected rights to use -Zauberberg,- alluding to Thomas Mann's famous novel) represents a blend of fruit from all four sites he farms in the Rudesheimer Berg, assembled solely on the basis of quantities that do not fit into the casks available for fermenting his dry single-vineyard wines. Yellow plum, apricot, and kumquat inform a palpably dense palate that seems almost to be suffused with crushed stone. The pungency of smoke and citrus oil, piquancy of toasted nuts, and chew of fruit skin all lend invigoration - but no outright bitterness - to this sappy example of the characteristic 2007 vintage alliance of stuffing and ripe flavors with dynamic and refreshment. This should be worth following for at least 8-10 years, since neither the quality of its raw materials nor their treatment differs materially from that of Leitz's dry single-vineyard wines. Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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