Weingut Josef Schmid Kremser Weingarten Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria

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The Schmid bottling of diverse origins known as 2007 Gruner Veltliner Kremser Weingarten displays saline and alkaline mineral suggestions from the nose on, allied to lime, honeydew melon, and musky, narcissus-like floral perfume. A radish-like bite impinges on the lush melon and lime palate, and a deep note of beet root helps remind one of the grape variety in question. Less pungent than the Pfarrweingarten, this superb value boasts impressive concentration and persistence, and should be worth following for at least 3-4 years. (The successor to last year’s outstanding Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben bottling – matured in a mixture of tank and new acacia barrels – was very awkward last June and I shall try to re-taste it this year.) Josef Schmid – son of the eponymous Schmid for whom the winery is named – did not score quite the number of successes this year that had come to my attention from 2006. But visiting with him made clear the passion with which he is pursuing quality, and which is resulting in some excellent values. Nearly all of the 2007s here were rather tight and reductive last summer, so they may well all benefit short term from time in bottle.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The Schmid 2007 Gruner Veltliner Pfarrweingarten – from a gravel site – evinces stony, smoky, peppery accents to a juicy, refreshing peach and snap pea matrix. Glossy in texture and with ample ripeness and fullness (despite less than 13% alcohol), yet stimulating vivacity, this finishes with cress and pepper sizzle and impressive grip. It should give pleasure for at least 3-4 years. Interestingly, this and the Satzen bottling are truly and unusually bone dry, at a gram or less residual sugar, a testimony to what German speakers would call “extract sweetness,” because there is no way these wines taste austere. Josef Schmid – son of the eponymous Schmid for whom the winery is named – did not score quite the number of successes this year that had come to my attention from 2006. But visiting with him made clear the passion with which he is pursuing quality, and which is resulting in some excellent values. Nearly all of the 2007s here were rather tight and reductive last summer, so they may well all benefit short term from time in bottle.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800