More fresh and focused than the uber-rich les Gallimardes, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape les Grenaches de Pierre is 100% Grenache that comes from a sandy parcel in La Crau and Pignan. Aged all in concrete tanks, it has a heavenly bouquet of blackberries, crushed rock, currants, peppery garrigue and cured meats. This gives way to a full-bodied, concentrated, textured, yet always elegant 2006 that has sweet tannin and a great finish. It too will drink well for another decade.

A candidate for wine of the vintage is the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Grenaches de Pierre. The essence of kirsch liqueur in that Rayas/Chateau Lafleur style, this wine has great intensity, full-bodied power, a seamless, silky integration of acidity and tannin, and a massive but light to the touch mouthfeel, this stunningly brilliant wine tastes like the Musigny of Chateauneuf du Pape. Drink it over the next 12-15+ years. Brilliant oenologist, Philippe Cambie, has completely resurrected this estate, where he is now turning out some of the most extraordinary wines of the appellation, with the old vine Les Grenaches de Pierre an outstanding clone of Rayas. That's not surprising in view of the fact that it comes from the pure sandy soils near Rayas. The traditional cuvee is aged in tank and old barrels, and represents a blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre. Les Gallimardes, also kept in tank and old barrels, is a combination of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Les Grenaches de Pierre is 100% old vine Grenache also aged in old barrels and tank.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565