The 2003 Cotes du Rhone (60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and the rest Mourvedre and other grapes) represents a home run for Marcel Guigal and his talented son, Philippe. A deep ruby color is followed by a spicy, earthy bouquet revealing scents of creme de cassis, wild herbs, kirsch, and blackberries. Dense, medium-bodied, and lightly tannic, it is a surprisingly big, substantial Cotes du Rhone in keeping with the finest efforts of the vintage. As I wrote last year, Marcel Guigal, who is not given to over-statements or hyperbole, thinks 2003 is the greatest vintage for the Northern Rhone in his lifetime. Marcel and Philippe Guigal, never content to rest on their already impressive credentials, announced that in the future, they expect to release another single vineyard Cote Rotie from a 3.7 acre parcel in the Viria vineyard on the Cote Brune. The first vintage or two will probably be added to the Chateau d’Ampuis. If the potential turns out to be as exceptional as they believe, lovers of these great wines will have a fourth single vineyard Cote Rotie called Viria to contemplate.There are many admirable things about Marcel Guigal, but most significant is that he has been a qualitative locomotive that has brought attention to the Rhone Valley, and has raised the quality bar for the entire region. More importantly, he realizes that most consumers will have access only to his least expensive wines from the Cotes du Rhone, so he has made every effort to continue to increase the quality of both his white and red Cotes du Rhones. His Cotes du Rhone whites have jumped in quality as he has settled on a general blend of approximately 50% Viognier and the rest Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Grenache Blanc. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

A bit of a disappointment from this normally reliable negociant, the 2003 rouge seems old before its time, showing a bit of alcoholic warmth through its leather and spice flavors. The 2004 blanc and 2005 rose are very good, so wait for the next vintage of rouge before stocking up.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 83