After a 2008 rendition that outclassed its fellow Fleurie in the Duboeuf portfolio, the 2009 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre – tasted from tank –follows in the same impressive mold and then some. Vinification under the direction of owner Claude Zordan involves partial de-stemming and extended, cool fermentation; and the wine will enjoy a longer stay in tank than most of its fellow Duboeuf 2009s. Scents of blueberry, blackberry, and almond extract usher in a juicy and refreshing palate and the finishing buoyancy belies the wine’s nearly 14% alcohol. Fruit pit bitterness, tart berry skin, and an illusive but distinctive sense of mineral savor (there is a hint of iodine, but that’s not all) render this as intriguing as it is sensually satisfying. I suspect one could enjoyably follow this for at least 3-4 years. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463
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