Philippe Bernede’s 2007 Cahors – a 80:20 Malbec:Merlot blend – continues Clos la Coutale’s long-running streak of excellence. Smelling – much as did the 2006 – of ripe mulberries, cassis, cardamom, carob, and black walnut husks, it offers a juicy and expansive palate through less sense of density and less textural refinement than that predecessor. Peppery pungency, sirloin juices, and faintly tart black fruits dominate a long if slightly lean finish. Paired properly – especially with grilled meats, where its element of freshness and precisely its lack of weightiness will prove welcome – this will serve admirably over the coming 3-4 years, and might even pick up some richness and further complexity. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

The wine feels light, with tannins that are edging on lean. The bitter cherry and dark plum fruit flavors give a vivid acidity and freshness, leaving the stalky tannins balanced with the acidity.——R.V.(2/1/2010)—— 87