Unctuous and deep gold in color, this ripe, supersaturated wine is loaded with a sensuous mix of tropical and stone fruits, from peach and melon to tangerine and papaya. The acids manage to keep up, lifting what might otherwise turn flabby, and the wine continues to unfold with streaks of caramel and white chocolate. It’s a decadent take on Chard, but well done, and definitely made for near-term drinking.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 88