Boillot's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champonnet – tasted just prior to bottling – puts one in mind of wine from its top-class, likewise diminutive, but better-known eastern neighbor, Fonteny. Peat, Lapsang tea, roasted meats, chalk dust, and dark berries intrigue the nose and mingle on a palate of almost satiny textural richness. Hints of cherry pit bitterness and wet stone add to the already dark shadings on display here and extend the finish. While this lacks the energy of the Evocelles, and could have a tendency toward somberness as it evolves, it displays soothing sumptuousness, and surely lacks neither structure nor stamina for 6-8 years' of study. Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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