The 2004 Merlot Girolamo fully captures the pedigree of this superb Tuscan vintage. Graphite, grilled herbs, minerals, violets and dark fruit are just some of the nuances that flow from this soft, harmonious wine. Once again, the balance is simply impeccable. Despite the wine’s generous fruit, there is plenty of structure underneath, but the finessed, silky nature of the tannins makes the wine very approachable even in this infant stage. Bacci gave the Girolamo two years in Allier oak prior to bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is a superb set of wines from Castello di Bossi and proprietor Marco Bacci. The estate is located in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the warmest and most southerly of the Chianti Classico villages, and the wines are loaded with Castelnuovo character. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620