Representing a very small lot from contract grapes, the Brocard 2007 Chablis Blanchot smells of ocean surf and wood smoke; comes onto the palate with resin, herb, lanolin, and toasted nut character that reflect the effects of barrel as well as the nature of the underlying fruit; and finishes with impressive persistence of fruit pit, salt, herbs, and nuts, along with just a hint of heat. This relatively spare but long-lined grand cru will be very worth revisiting in 2010 and might well be a candidate for 4-6 years’ cellaring. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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