The 2010 seems cool both metaphorically and literally when one returns to it. Schmid’s 2009 Riesling Pfaffenberg displays saline, sweaty, fascinatingly animal and mineral aspects from its nose to its lip-licking finish. Glyceral richness and relatively low acidity help engender a sweet sense to the polished wine’s peachy fruit, while smoky black tea, orange rind, and struck-flint pungency offer counterpoint. This ought to be worth following for at least 4-5 years. I last met with Schmid in order to taste his 2007s (on which I reported in issue 181), and my visit this June confirms him as a source of some seriously delicious and well-priced wines. He opened for me a few of his 2009s as well as his most recent collection. Schmid claims to have had only one-third of a normal crop in 2010 from his 40 acres (which are spread over some 50 parcels). “Some of my old vines didn’t even have any crop on them this year,” he notes.A Monika Caha Selection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 877-3558 with various importers, including Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
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