If you’re looking for a California Riesling that’s a worthy rival to German ones, try this wine. Clean, zesty aromas of wildflowers, apples and lime lead to racy fruit flavors underscored by very high acidity. There’s a tangy minerality that makes it feel steely and firm. It’s not bone dry, but close enough. Call it California Spatlese. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 88