Domaine Henri Gouges La Perriere Blanc, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, France

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If served the Nuits-St.-Georges Les Perrieres (White) blind, I would have picked it out for a lighter-styled red. Crisp and ripe raspberry aromas are followed by a well-structured wine (it even has soft but noticeable tannins!) with medium body. This lively and fresh cherry-filled wine is delicious but will improve over the next 8-9 years. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The 1995s are the finest wines from this estate I have tasted, and I hope the progress continues.The Gouges cousins produce two whites from the famous "Henri Gouges Albino Pinot Noir" plants. The story has it that in the late 1940s Gouges discovered that some of his Pinot Noir vines were producing both red and white grapes. He took cuttings from the plants and propagated them. Today, the Gouges are not the only producers of wines from these mutant vines as they have generously provided cuttings to other interested vignerons (as was noted in Issue #110). Generally, according to the Gouges, these mutant Pinot Noir vines produce their best wines in years better suited for reds than whites. Moreover, they state that they age well and should be served at the same temperature as for a red wine. I have tasted every vintage going back to 1985 and agree that they age well but believe they are at their best when served cooler than reds but warmer than is the norm for whites. The Gouges said it best when they described their whites as "fascinating curiosities."Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139.