The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva is perhaps slightly less opulent than the Lucius but it offers noticeably more complexity in both its aromas and flavors, with expressive notes of dark cherries, tobacco, menthol, licorice and herbs that emerge from the glass. Still fairly tightly wound, it will require a few years in the cellar to come together but it offers much potential. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Sherbrooke Cellars, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 722-9100