A burnished gold, tilting toward mahogany, this decadently thrilling ice wine is sex in a glass. Immense concentration, with layers of sugar that run from molasses to honey to brown sugar to maple syrup. It’s supported with enough acidity to keep it focused, and the flavors wrap into a finish that is a combination of every creme brulee you’ve ever enjoyed.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 94