It takes a few minutes to become friends with this bruising heavyweight from Mendoza’s Uco Valley. It’s muscular, tough, tannic and lemony now, but time will unleash a lovable, big-time Argentine blend with rustic notes along with pure, polished berry fruit and loads of earthy spice. Better to hold until at least 2011 before uncorking.——M.S.(5/1/2010)—— 92