Smells like sand, gravel and Meyer lemon zest. The feel is dry, smooth and crisp, with some unctuousness—pretty different from most Aussie Sauvignons, to be sure. The texture is the salient feature here; if you’re one who prefers bright SB fruit character, this wine’s dust, citrus pith and hay notes might not satisfy.——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 87